This year and last, I authored, or will author, several books set in the 1870s. I decided it was time to make a point to learn more about the fashions of that era.
I knew bustles were a key fashion style of the day. What else?
The large hoop skirts of the 1850s and 1860s—kept full by the use of crinolines and hoops—were replaced by skirts where the fullness moved toward the back. The underskirt was draped with overskirts that were held in place by tapes and supported by bustles.
Also, when dressing up, ladies wore smaller bonnets than in earlier eras. Although they appeared to look more like hats, as long as they were tied under the chin with ribbons, they were still regarded as bonnets. Small hats—often with veils—were also balanced on top of the hair and held in place by hat pins—wicked little accessories that often doubled as self-defense weapons. The hats did not cast enough shade to prevent the ladies from getting their faces sunburned. These bonnets and hats were designed to accommodate hair styles where the hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in either a tight know or a cluster of ringlets. Bangs on the forehead also became popular.
The skirts and bodices were ornamented with a variety of pleats, flounces, rouching, and frills.
During the mid-1870s—the timeframe of my most recent book—the size of bustles toned down so they were not so full. Until the full, looks-like-a-bookshelf bustles came back into style for a short time in the 1880s, bustles gradually were worn lower in back, giving the wearer a smoother profile.
Outwear to keep the women warm were mostly either capes or jackets with a vent in the back to allow for the bustles. For everyday wear, shawls were also used.
Sleeves were tightly fitted to the arms. Square necklines became popular. Day dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped.
Evening gowns tended to have lower necklines with very short and off-the-shoulder sleeves.
The bustle style changed so the fullness of the bustle was lower on the body, which created an
New fabric dyes were invented, which prompted women to wear brighter clothing in bolder designs.
As for the men, Western men still wore rugged work clothes for physical labor. trousers, a shirt cut in a slimmer style than earlier years, and a vest was common. Men in the West also wore derbies. (This style of hat with its rounded crown and short brim was more commonly called a derby in the United States and a bowler in the Great Britain.)
It was easy to spot an out-of-town dandy from the East. For formal dress, the silk top hats were still very popular.
However, toward the end of the decade, men tended to wear the more stylish derby. In this photo, notice the shoes, the high starched collar, and tie.
Also, in this photograph of Bat Masterson that dates from 1879, notice the derby. Also, note how the jacket flares open at the bottom. For decades, men often fastened the top button of their jackets leaving the remaining buttons undone. This was probably to make it easier to reach their pocket watches. Not only was it more convenient for checking the time, a fashion-conscious man would wish to show off his gold watch chain and fob.
Although fashions changed at a slower rate in the nineteenth century than today, such changes were notable. I enjoy this collage that shows how women’s dress styles transitioned from the 1860s through to the 1890s.
My most recent release is The Bride Who Invades Saloons. To find the book description and pre-order link, please CLICK HERE
My next book will be The Mine Owner’s Rescue, which is now on pre-order. To find the book description and pre-order link, please CLICK HERE
