The exact origin of the combination of an edible wafter or waffle, the cone shaped, and the ice cream is unclear. edible wafers date back centuries, and they were long served alongside ice cream as an accompaniment. The most popular cone invention stories originated at the 1904 World's Fair, but they were almost certainly invented before that date and the actual story of who first used a rolled wafter to service ice cream is a murky story.
In 1807, a painting of a Parisian cafe holds an early clue that the cafe was known for serving ice cream, and the lower right corner of the image shows a woman licking something out of a handheld container that historians claim is the "first pictorial evidence for ice cream cones."
As ice cream grew in popularity in the 19th century, vendors began selling it on city streets in a variety of cups and containers, including cone-shaped glass utensils and the notoriously unsanitary "penny licks" -- tiny, stemmed glasses in which ices were sold at the British seashore and on London streets. Once the treat was consumed, the dishes were reused by the next customer without washing, potentially spreading disease.
In 1887, a British author, Agnes Marshall printed instructions for making "Cornets with Cream," cone-shaped vessels made of a sweet paste of blanches almonds and flour rolled around cornet molds, baked, and filled with sweetened vanilla-flavored whipped creams.
At the turn of the century Antonio Valvona filed a patent for a device to make biscuits cups or dishes that could be filled with ice cream then sold by vendors on the streets. In 1902, Valvona teamed up with Frank Marchiony, an Italian immigrant in New York. Valvona operated the firm's factory in England, while Marchiony ran the American operations on the Lower East Side of Manhattan and Brooklyn.
Enter Marchiony's cousin, Italo Marchiony. In 1903, the cousin established a rival ice cream firm and filed a patent for his own "molding apparatus used in the manufacture of ice cream cups and the like." The illustrations from Italo's patent application showed precisely the kind of unusual shapes he was trying to mold tiny flat-bottomed teacups made of biscuit dough, complete with delicate handles.
And that's where things stood on the eve of the St. Louis World's Fair. People were eating ice cream from edible containers, but nothing that anyone today would consider an ice cream cone.
One thing we know for sure: visitors at the World's Fair ate plenty of ice cream in cones--or cornucopias, as they were called at the time. A patron wrote home to her family in South Carolina that the "waffle cornucopia filled with ice cream" was a treat widely enjoyed on "the Pike"--the Exposition's version of a midway.
A photo taken at the Fair shows a mother and her three children standing outside the "New York to the North Pole" attraction each holding an ice cream cone. The long cones have waffled sides and pointed bottoms familiar to us today instead of just a rolled-up waffle.
The myths about who concocted the first ice cream cones began with the most common 1904 St. Louis World's Fair story. Ernest Hamwi, an immigrant from Syria, was making zalabia, a wafer dessert, next to an ice cream stand. Hamwi suggested the combination when the ice cream vendor ran out of dishes. In the 1950s, the International Association of Ice Cream Manufacturers named him the official creator. Still, stories of other "originators" of the ice cream cone continued to circulate in the years following the fair.
Yet, with so many competing after-the-fact stories and so little tangible evidence, it seems unlikely that we'll ever know who came up with the ice cream cone, the Fair did serve to popularize the cone, which for millions of people--our family included, will be forever grateful!
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