Fashions from the 1870s by Zina Abbott

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This year and last, I authored, or will author, several books set in the 1870s. I decided it was time to make a point to learn more about the fashions of that era.

I knew bustles were a key fashion style of the day. What else?

The large hoop skirts of the 1850s and 1860s—kept full by the use of crinolines and hoops—were replaced by skirts where the fullness moved toward the back. The underskirt was draped with overskirts that were held in place by tapes and supported by bustles.

Also, when dressing up, ladies wore smaller bonnets than in earlier eras. Although they appeared to look more like hats, as long as they were tied under the chin with ribbons, they were still regarded as bonnets. Small hats—often with veils—were also balanced on top of the hair and held in place by hat pins—wicked little accessories that often doubled as self-defense weapons. The hats did not cast enough shade to prevent the ladies from getting their faces sunburned. These bonnets and hats were designed to accommodate hair styles where the hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in either a tight know or a cluster of ringlets. Bangs on the forehead also became popular.

The skirts and bodices were ornamented with a variety of pleats, flounces, rouching, and frills.

During the mid-1870s—the timeframe of my most recent book—the size of bustles toned down so they were not so full. Until the full, looks-like-a-bookshelf  bustles came back into style for a short time in the 1880s, bustles gradually were worn lower in back, giving the wearer a smoother profile.

 

Outwear to keep the women warm were mostly either capes or jackets with a vent in the back to allow for the bustles. For everyday wear, shawls were also used.

Sleeves were tightly fitted to the arms. Square necklines became popular. Day dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped.

Evening gowns tended to have lower necklines with very short and off-the-shoulder sleeves.  

 

The bustle style changed so the fullness of the bustle was lower on the body, which created an

New fabric dyes were invented, which prompted women to wear brighter clothing in bolder designs.

As for the men, Western men still wore rugged work clothes for physical labor. trousers, a shirt cut in a slimmer style than earlier years, and a vest was common. Men in the West also wore derbies. (This style of hat with its rounded crown and short brim was more commonly called a derby in the United States and a bowler in the Great Britain.)

It was easy to spot an out-of-town dandy from the East. For formal dress, the silk top hats were still very popular.

 

However, toward the end of the decade, men tended to wear the more stylish derby.  In this photo, notice the shoes, the high starched collar, and tie.

 

Also, in this photograph of Bat Masterson that dates from 1879, notice the derby. Also, note how the jacket flares open at the bottom. For decades, men often fastened the top button of their jackets leaving the remaining buttons undone. This was probably to make it easier to reach their pocket watches. Not only was it more convenient for checking the time, a fashion-conscious man would wish to show off his gold watch chain and fob.

 

Although fashions changed at a slower rate in the nineteenth century than today, such changes were notable. I enjoy this collage that shows how women’s dress styles transitioned from the 1860s through to the 1890s.

 

 

My most recent release is The Bride Who Invades Saloons. To find the book description and pre-order link, please CLICK HERE

 

 

 

 

My next book will be The Mine Owner’s Rescue, which is now on pre-order. To find the book description and pre-order link, please CLICK HERE

 

HAIR UP AND SKIRTS DOWN. by Marisa Masterson

Imagine with me a country miss. She is living in the very modern time of the 1870s with its wonderful new inventions like the telephone, phonograph, the typewriter, and the lightbulb.

This young lady has finished eighth grade and is graduating. She is done with school since no high school is close enough to attend and there is no reason for her to continue on. She knows plenty, as her pa told her.

Oh that exciting day. The girl can finally put her hair in a bun. No more hair to her shoulders, though she still has the bangs that became popular for girls to wear in the 1870s. 

Yes, now she is a grown up. School days are done. Her short hems are a thing of the past as well.

A girl in the nineteenth century would wear skirts that eneded at mid-calf or slightly shorter. When she was considered an adult, those hems dropped to cover tempting ankles.

Of course, a farm woman or someone expected to work wore slightly shorter hems. Those would brush the tops of her shoes, still long enough to show her as an adult. But these were for around home. When she went to town or to church our miss puts on a shirtwaist and a skirt that brushes the top of her shiny boots.

Women on the Prairie and especially those traveling with a wagon train were known also to wore their skirts shorter. Often these were almost as high as a child's. This was done to avoid tangling them in the grass or setting the hem on fire when cooking over an open fire.

But not our miss. She will stay on the farm until her beau proposes. Then she will move to his place, probably another farm. 

Typical of the time, our young lady will not move far in her lifetime. She is not one of the adventurers who seek free land. No, she is happy in her community.\

Others are not so fortunate to live out their lives amongst people they have always known. Take Christiana for example. She is forced to travel the Santa Fe Trail--

A grumpy man meets a strong-minded woman. You bet the sparks are flying!

Christiana Mallory has no choice but to become Moody Dutton's cook. Her sister insists they find a way to join a wagon train headed south. Patience is determined to retrieve a map showing where their pa buried gold coins. To do that, they must reach Colorado.

When Patience immediately marries Moody's cousin, Christiana is determined not to become a wife. She holds Moody at a distance, fighting with him so that she will not give in to her growing attraction.

Only, when danger threatens her sister's life does Christiana recognize her growing desire to stay with Moody. He shows her how deeply he desires them to be a couple. Can she commit to living her life in isolation on a ranch?