Stagecoaches to Yosemite by Zina Abbott

Although rumors of a great valley with steep, granite walls in the Sierra Nevada Mountains existed by the 1840's, Americans of European descent did not enter Yosemite Valley prior to 1851. As word spread of unique and breathtaking beauty, in increasing numbers, adventurers traveled to the region to view and explore. Once the federal government,set apart Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias as the Yosemite Grant and turned administration over to the State of California, interest in the region increased. At first, the only way in and out of either grant land was either on foot or on horseback.  

Rail lines and stagecoach routes connecting to Yosemite as of 1885

The completion of the Transcontinental Railroad coupled with Central Pacific Railroad's decision to build a north-south line from Sacramento south promised easier access to those wishing to visit the Yosemite Grant lands. As more tourists poured into California for the purpose of visiting these two preserves, merchants and businesses from Stockton down to Madera saw the benefit of investing in wagon roads that would encourage visitors to patronize their stores and hotels.  

Since the Yosemite Grant lands were surrounded by the gold mining regions, a multitude of stagecoach companies operated nearby. Before long, the process of obtaining permission to build toll roads that would allow stagecoach travel to and from the Yosemite area began.

The Coulterville Company was formed in 1859. After extending its road to Crane Flat not far from Yosemite, the owner, Dr. John T. McLean, arranged with the Yosemite commissioners in charge of the two grant lands for his company to build a road into Yosemite Valley from the north. He negotiated an agreement that his company would have exclusive rights for stagecoach travel for ten years.

 

Dr. McLean then formed the Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike Company. As part of this  agreement, the road was projected in 1870 and completed to the Merced River in Yosemite Valley in June of 1874. The Coulterville Road holds the distinction of being the first to make the Yosemite Valley accessible to wheeled vehicles.

The Big Oak Flat Company, which also operated in the foothills near Yosemite, applied to extend their road to Yosemite Valley after the Yosemite Commissioners gave exclusive rights to the Coulterville Road. The commissioners refused to violate their agreement with McLean’s company. Unwilling to accept the refusal, the Big Oak Flat Company went over their heads to the state legislature, which passed an act that allowed them to build their road.

The "Zig-Zag" section of the talus slopes of Big Oak Flat Road

The Big Oak Flat and Yosemite Turnpike Road, which began in Chinese Camp (To read my recent post on Chinese Camp, click HERE), was completed to the floor of Yosemite in July, 1874, one month after the Coulterville Road reached the Valley. Because both sought to attract tourists arriving from the north and west, the operation of the Big Oak Flat Road worked as a detriment to the Coulterville Road.  

Galen Clark in front of his cabin

Galen Clark, an early resident of the Yosemite area was instrumental in having Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove set aside as preserves. He was one of the original eight Yosemite Commissioners and was appointed as the Yosemite Grant's first guardian, with duties similar to those performed by today's park rangers. His cabin, to which he welcomed visitors, became known as Clark's Station.

Clark also saw the need for a road that would enter from the south and reach Mariposa Grove first. He worked at raising the money by going into debt with family and businesses. To cover payments, he ended up selling half his interest in all his holdings, including his cabin, which became known as Clark and Moore's Station. He and the Moores, his new partners, managed to get a road built to within twelve miles of Mariposa Grove before they ran out of money. They ended up selling everything to partners Washburn (a successful Mariposa merchant), Chapman, and Coffman, who, in the fall of 1874, applied to extend their newly-acquired Mariposa Road to Yosemite Valley. Washburn eventually bought his partners out.

The commissioners granted their request. The road, which connected the Mariposa Grove with Yosemite Valley in July 1875, was operated by the Yosemite Stage and Turnpike Company. It also connected the towns of Mariposa, Madera, and other towns to the south. 

This became important as the Central Pacific Railroad completed track, and tourists were able to travel by rail farther south before needing to catch a stagecoach to Yosemite. 

 

Even after the Yosemite Valley Railroad reached almost to Yosemite Valley, stagecoaches transported arriving train passengers from the railroad's station at El Portal to Yosemite Valley, often in a Stoddard Stage Lines Mahta, which was an eleven-passenger mud wagon built in the neighboring county of Merced, California, by McDonald. That did not change until after 1913, when automobiles were finally allowed within Yosemite National Park.

 

I featured the Yosemite Stage & Turnpike Company in my first book in the National Park Brides series, Anthelia Yosemite Bride. I will be featuring the Big Oak Flat and Turnpike Company stagecoach line in my next National Park Brides, book.

To find the book description and purchase options for Anthelia Yosemite Bride, please CLICK HERE 

 

 

Sources:

Sargent, Shirley. Yosemite's Historic Wawona. Yosemite, California: Flying Spur Press, 1979, 13-16.

Russell, Carl Parcher. One Hundred Years in Yosemite. Yosemite National Park, California: Yosemite Association, 1992, 60-63

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yosemite_Stage_and_Turnpike_Company 

Wikimedia Commons 

https://www.yosemite.ca.us/pioneer-yosemite-history-center/wagons.html