Sweet Americana Sweethearts: Book Review--The History of Underclothes by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington

Friday, June 28, 2024

Book Review--The History of Underclothes by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington

This reference has proven invaluable over the years when I’m figuring out what people of the past wore under their street clothes. Some outerwear is also described, as in: first comes this undergarment followed by these other layers.

The book was published in England and covers undergarments for both sexes over the past six centuries—from medieval times to 1939. Not only is the construction described, but also information is given about what the garments were made of and which garment was worn next to the skin. From the medieval times, not much change happened. People of the working class wore shapeless garments that allowed them to complete the tasks of their profession. They didn’t concern themselves with the body’s outline or garments that changed its shape. The authors used both written sources (poems, novels, church writings) and paintings, etching, and sculptures to determine what was worn.

Through it, I’ve learned the difference between panniers and hooped petticoats or crinolines and crinolettes. Detailed are how some garments started out long in this era but became shorter in another. The approximate time period of when various fashion items like bustles or corsets (for both men and women) or types of shirt collars came into general usage are given. Sometimes, yardage amounts are given for styles of dresses or how big the circumference of the hem was. These facts help the reader picture the amount of space they took.

Writing a story set in the decades of hoop skirts means the whole skirt would move in the opposite direction if another person pressed close. Or having a woman travel in a stagecoach during the time when bustles were considered an essential wardrobe piece means the character must be uncomfortable without the ability to lean back all the way.

(all photos taken from the referenced book)

I’m an author who wants the reader to be immersed in the everyday details of life in whichever year I’m writing. When I know of a gem like this book, I like to share it.