Victorian-America's Crabapple Jelly and Preserves by Kristin Holt

 

by Kristin Holt, USA Today Bestselling Author of
Sweet Romance set in the American Old West

 

September is Jelly and Preserves Season!

 

Crabapples

Gorgeous, flowering crabapple trees can be found in temperate climates. Blossom-laden boughs herald the warming days of late spring. The sour fruit is enjoyed in jellies and preserves.

Victorian housekeepers (wives) bottled preserves (whole fruit in syrup) and jellies. Their recipes illustrate 19th century cooking methods differing from the modern.

Flowering crabapple tree, courtesy of Pinterest.

Crabapples are smaller and much more sour than typical apples.

Crabapples, courtesy of Pinterest.

Vintage Crabapple Recipes, 1898

"Making Crabapple Jelly," original to New York Tribune, was reprinted in The Washington Standard of Olympia, Washington on November 11, 1898. This newspaper column provides much more information than appeared in recipe books of the era, thus an ideal example of Victorian-era preserving. I've taken great care to transcribe the article's text precisely, including vintage spelling, odd plurals, and punctuation.

Crabapple Wisdom, 1898

The crabapple is one of the most important fruits that are put up by the house-keeper in the Fall. It makes delicious preserves, and is a most valuable jelly. The tartness and fine, rich flavor of crabapple jelly render it second only to currant. For preserving the fruit the large, red-checked Siberian crabapple should be used, and may be obtained in market at about 40 cents a peck. For jelly, a cheap variety, the little wild crabapple, may be used with the best results and may often be purchased at 20 cents a peck, thus making it one of the cheapest of jellies.

~ The Washington Standard of Olympia, Washington, November 11, 1898

Crabapple Jelly Instructions, 1898

To make crabapple jelly look the fruit over carefully, cut out the stems and the blossom ends, and cut every apples [sic] in halves. Put the fruit in a large double boiler or in a stone jar sit [sic] in a large pot of water, and let the water come gradually to the boiling point around the jar. Be sure that the water reaches up to the fruit. The water must boil around the jar for eight or nine hours, and must be replenished as it boils away. At the end of this time the juice will be drawn out of the fruit and the jar may be removed from the water and left to cool over night. (emphasis added)

~ The Washington Standard of Olympia, Washington, November 11, 1898

Compared to modern crabapple jelly recipes, this Victorian method takes forever.

Read on!

Then strain them through a strong muslin cloth, squeezing out all the juice possible. Measure the juice and allow a pound of sugar to every pint. Boil the juice for 20 minutes before adding the sugar. Then put in the sugar and let it come to a boil for a few minutes longer, until it is firm jelly. Then strain it into jelly-bowls, and when cold cover it with papers and seal it up. Many delicious desserts are made with crabapple jelly, and it is excellent to use for cake.

~ The Washington Standard of Olympia, Washington, November 11, 1898

 Note the reference to papers, which were brandy-soaked (or not), cut to the proper size to fully cover the jelly surface, and set directly upon the contents. "Seal it up," in reference to jelly, meant either papers pasted over the top of open jars, glass caps (screw on or clamp), or tin lids which had no threads. Note that none of these methods hamper spoilage (by sterilization and vacuum) the way today's jelly- and jam-bottling methods do.

Crabapple Preserves Instructions, 1898

To make a crabapple preserve, use the whole fruit: after carefully looking it over, put into a preserving kettle with enough water to prevent burning. Let the water come gradually to the boiling point, and simmer until the skins crack. Remove the apples, skin them, and with a thin-bladed French knife take out the cores from the blossom ends, leaving the stems on. Weigh the fruit and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar and a scant cup of water to every pound. Let the water and sugar first boil together until clear, then add the fruit and let it simmer until the crabapples are transparent and tender. Remove the apples with a skimmer and spread them out on platters in the sun to cool and harden. Add a syrup of lemon juice in the proportion of the juice of one lemon to three pounds of the fruit, and let it boil until it is clear. When the fruit is cold and hardened, fill quart jars about three-quarters full and strain the syrup over them, filling the jars on the top. Screw on the covers and when cold tighten down.

~ The Washington Standard of Olympia, Washington, November 11, 1898

Did you notice this vintage crabapple preserve is not processed in a water bath? Even after the fruit sat out in the sun?

How did these preserves keep? Our Victorian ancestors understood that adequate sugar in jams, jellies, and preserves acted as a preservative by inhibiting microbial activity.

Crabapple bough, laden with fruit. Image: Pinterest.

Invitation

Do you make jam and jellies or bottle preserves? What insights can you share about the differences between Victorian jellies (or preserves) and today's?

Have you other thoughts to share? Please scroll down and comment.

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Copyright Ⓒ 2021 Kristin Holt LC

Malted Milk

by Shanna Hatfield

Most soda fountain treats began as health foods, such a malteds. My dad has always been a big fan of malted milk and still enjoys them about once a week. So it made me curious about the history of the drink. 

Malted milk is a powdery mixture of malted barley, wheat flour, and evaporated whole milk. The powder is used to add a distinctive flavor to beverages and foods, and may also be used in baking to help dough cook properly. 

The driving force behind the invention of malted milk stemmed from a desire to find a soluble shelf-stable powdered milk. Early forms had to be cooked before it was consumed. Other forms proved unstable for an extended shelf-life.

Finally, in the late 1800s, one man figured out how to make it work. 

James Horlick, a London pharmacists, developed ideas for an improved wheat and malt based nutritional supplement for infants. Uncertain about his opportunities in the United Kingdom, he joined his brother William in Racine, Wisconsin, to work at a relative's quarry. 

In 1873, the two brothers formed J&W Horlicks to manufacture their rand of infant food in Chicago. Ten years later, they earned a patent for a new formula for infants, enhanced with their supplemental dried milk. 

The name "malted milk" was trademarked by the company in 1887. 

Despite the origins as a healthy supplement for infants and then invalids, malted milk found additional markets. Because of its lightweight, non-perishable, nourishing qualities, explorers took malted milk on adventures across the globe. William Horlick became a patron of Antarctic exploration. Admiral Richard E. Byrd reported named a mountain range in Antarctica after him. 

People began drinking Horlick's malted milk for enjoyment. James returned to England to import his American-made product. The Horlick's product was marketing as a "complete food for all ages." 

Since soda fountains were located in the drug stores that sold malted milk for health purposes, they began experimenting with adding malted milk in milkshakes. Malted milk syrup was added to beverages for flavoring and to milkshakes to make them more robust in flavor. It also boosted the fat content, making the drinks more filling. 

Malts became so popular, many drug stores that served them became known as Malt Shops. 

Horlick's patent ran until 1900. By this time, other companies had started producing versions of malted milk. Two companies that took advantage of a court ruling that said anyone could make a product and call it malted milk were Borden and Carnation.  Malted milk wars ensued and continued for many years.

The heyday for malted milk was in the 1920s, but you can still buy malted milk powder today. 

~*~

   After spending her formative years on a farm in eastern Oregon, hopeless romantic Shanna Hatfield turns her rural experiences into sweet historical and contemporary romances filled with sarcasm, humor, and hunky heroes.

   When this USA Today bestselling author isn’t writing or covertly seeking dark, decadent chocolate, Shanna hangs out with her beloved husband, Captain Cavedweller.

   Shanna loves to hear from readers. Follow her online at:

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Croquettes: Economic Victorian Dining ~ by Kristin Holt

by USA Today Bestselling Author Kristin Holt

Throughout the nineteenth century, American Victorians enjoyed a dish known as “croquettes”—a thrifty dish that routinely “dressed up previously unused or otherwise unwanted meat” (and fish, macaroni, rice, potato, etc.). [American Restaurants and Cuisine in the Mid-Nineteenth Century by Paul Freedman]

What is a croquette?

“Croquettes, small shaped masses of some savory (or occasionally sweet) substance deep-fried, typically in a coating of breadcrumbs, get their name from their crisp exterior: for croquette is a derivative of the French verb croquer, crunch. The range of potential ingredients is limitless—meat, rice, cheese, fish, pasta, vegetables have all been pressed into service—but undoubtedly the croquette’s commonest filling today is mashed potato. It is far from new to the English kitchen; it is mentioned in the 1706 edition of Edward Phillipps’s New World of English Words: On Cookery, ‘Croquets are a certain Compound made of delitious Stuff'd Meat, some of the bigness of an Egg, and others of a Walnut.’” [An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press: Oxford] 2002 (p. 98), quoted on Foodtimeline.org]

Vintage sources such as newspapers, cook books (always two words rather than a compound in the era), and historian’s articles, list a wide range of croquettes including but not limited to:

salmon croquettes

chicken croquettes

turkey croquettes

beef croquettes

veal croquettes

cold meat croquettes

sweetbread croquettes (sweetbread is the culinary name for the thymus gland, or rarely, the pancreas, of an animal, especially as used for food)

“Philadelphia” croquettes (fowl, sweetbread, and calf’s brain)

potato croquettes

macaroni croquettes

rice croquettes (both savory and sweet)

hominy croquettes

apple croquettes

“Early instructions suggest this [chicken croquettes] “made dish” was a venerable culinary feat, not to be attempted by inexperienced cooks. Modern frozen products must be a far cry from the original offering. Careful notes on shape and presentation confirm croquettes were originally intended for elegant dinners.” [Foodtimeline.org]

The following sampling of recipes (with their original sources) illustrates the variety of croquettes known within American cuisine, as ‘receipts’ were included within cook books published in the United States and homemakers shared their best methods and ingredients via newspapers.

For sake of organization, I’ve listed recipes in order by date rather than by type. Notice that recipes (or receipts) in the nineteenth century required cooks to read through a paragraph-style accounting of ingredients, quantities, and methods, with vital instructions often listed as a near afterthought.

1824

“To Make Croquets. Take cold fowl or fesh meat of any kind, with slices of ham, fat and lean, chop them together very fine, add half as much stale bread grated, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of made mustard, a tabel spoonful of catsup, and a lump of butter; knead all well together till it resembles sausage meat, make them in cakes, dip them in the yelk of an egg beaten, cover them thickly with grated bread, and fry them a light brown.” (historic spelling preserved) [Source: The Virginia Housewife, Mary Randolph, facsimile 1824 edition with Historical Notes and Commentaries by Karen Hess [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia SC] 1984 (p. 106), quoted by Foodtimeline.org.]

1877

To Make Chicken Croquettes, Parts 1 and 2: New England Farmer of Boston, Massachusetts on February 10, 1877.

1879

Rice Croquettes, The Osage City Free Press of Osage City, Kansas on May 2, 1879.

Rice Croquettes, Washington Republican of Washington, Kansas on August 29, 1879.

Hominy and Hominy Croquettes, Washington Republican of Washington, Kansas on August 29, 1879.

 "...croquettes as the attractive French substitute for American hash, and ... how to make them...", The Weekly Star of Plymouth, Pennsylvania on June 12, 1879.

1881

Potato Croquettes, parts 1 and 2, Western Home Journal of Lawrence, Kansas on December 29, 1881.

1885

Apple Croquettes, The Boston Globe of Boston, Massachusetts on December 31, 1885.

1886

Philadelphia Croquettes, parts 1 and 2. The Citizen of Topeka, Kansas on May 8, 1886.

1892

Cold Meat Croquettes, The Columbian Cook Book Containing Reliable Rules for Plain and Fancy Cooking, 1892.

1895

Croquettes of Odds and Ends, Three Hundred Tested Recipes, 2nd edition, 1895.

1905

Chicken Croquettes, Dr. Sloan’s Cook Book and Advice to Housekeepers, 1905.

So there you have it. Croquettes: A nineteenth century favorite dining pleasure—leftovers tucked away in a crispy, fried coating. Like tater tots, only with various bits of leftover “hash”, including calf brains. Yummy.

Interested in more details about nineteenth century baking, cooking methods, and holiday meals? See the following links (click on the title images):

 

Kristin Holt, USA Today Bestselling Author, writes Sweet Victorian Romance set in the American West. She writes frequently about Old West history and contributes monthly to Sweet Americana Sweethearts.

Sweet Romance Appropriate for All Audiences

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Copyright © 2019 Kristin Holt LC

Black-eyed Peas, Anyone?

In the South, black-eyed peas are eaten on New Year’s Day, and as far as I can remember, I’ve never missed the tradition. I have a pot cooking on the stove now. Black-eyed peas were introduced to the United States as early in the 17th century in Virginia. The black-eyed pea was probably first domesticated in West Africa although it was also grown in Asia.

Flavoring my black-eyed peas is a slice of hog jowl. Yes, I always eat a bit of it also, and the taste is actually quite good. Along with the peas cooked with hog jowl, we always have greens. These greens can vary, but my family usually enjoys turnip greens. Collards, mustard greens, or even cabbage—any green leafy vegetable can be eaten for good luck in the new year. This year, we’ll be eating mustard greens grown organically in our own garden.

Also accompanying our meal will be ham and cornbread. Greens without cornbread? No, that would not be wise.

These foods all have positive connotations for the new year. The greens represent money, the peas, we were always told represent coins, and the ham, progress, because of the rooting, forward action of pigs.

Wikipedia gives an alternate version of why black-eyed peas are considered good omens. After soaking and then cooking the dried peas, they increase in size. Increase is what we want for the new year—at least in regard to our money. This meme is popular on Facebook around Christmas time:

The fat bank account comes, according to the tradition, through the black-eyed peas.

Another food we eat is pork. I grew up with a saying “Root, hog or die poor.” This goes back to well before 1834. Pigs were turned loose to forage for themselves. The more they rooted, the greater chance they’d find food.

Before the Civil War, several songs were published with this saying, such as this one:

And that reminds me of another saying, “Even a blind hog finds an acorn once and a while.” This, in my family, is always said when someone comes up with a good idea or perhaps says the correct thing at the correct time. Some of us have a way of putting our foot in our mouth at every opportune occasion. Yet, perhaps, those of us with that tendency may be like the blind hog and “find an acorn,” find the right words to say, or perhaps, do the right thing.

Pigs root forward and are always searching, making them a symbol of prosperity. We, like the lowly pig, must continuously search, and we may just find that acorn.

And there you have it—my menu for today. I will be dining on black-eyed peas, cornbread, mustard greens, and ham—all the things needed to give me the desires of my heart for 2019.

Happy New Year!

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Coming this month:
Brokken Redeemed